answer 1662

answer: 

The questioner responded with clarification:

"While I think fair trade and organic are good concepts, it's not the main thing I'm interested in. I'm interested in the concept of terroir, which is a concept in winemaking that says the place that the grapes are grown, the specific place, and also the history of the winemaker and their traditions, is all-important. It is a French word, and it is French winemakers above all who believe this. Newer winemaking regions have had less time to develop their terroir, and rely more on a "science" of wine, where they hire international wine consultants who know how to process the wine to appeal to global tastes (as defined, primarily, by wine spectator magazine, which really likes certain things and not other things, has a very specific taste that is homogenizing the wine industry). So these very highly paid wine consulting companies work for hundreds of wineries and help them make wine that tastes kind of the same. It works for them - the wine sells more and commands higher prices, because it gets higher ratings in wine spectator magazine. Some winemakers, and not others, are resistant to this based on the concept of terrior. Most, perhaps, are in France, but some are other places, too. I believe there are distributors who specialize in these types of wines, but you can't buy directly from a distributor. I am hoping to shop online for this kind of wine."

Sadly, my lack of wine knowledge is hindering my ability to properly search for where to buy wines created by vintners who embody the values you describe. The concepts of "terroir" and "non-globalized" (unlike, for example, "fair trade") are nebulous enough that searching on them for a purveyor is not easy/possible. Talking to a trusted wine shop employee may be the best way to actually obtain some of the wines you want. If you're in NYC, you could try Appellation (though they do focus on organic and biodynamic wines and would likely interpret your query along environmental lines). I can offer some other resources...

Take a look at Terroir-France: French Wine Guide, which also lists wine grades, including the highest, the AOC (Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée).

It sounds like you've seen the Jonathan Nossiter documentary "Mondovino," and you may want to read some reviews of it: in the Nation, in Reason, in Cineaste, and on indieWIRE, among many other publications.

Other articles:

"Tradition, Territory, and Terroir in French Viniculture: Cassis, France, and Appellation Controlee" by Daniel W. Gade
Association of American Geographers. Annals of the Association of American Geographers. Washington: Dec 2004. Vol. 94, Iss. 4; pg. 848, 20 pgs


Is the Earth of France The Mother of Wine?
by Michael Steinberger. New York Times, Apr 14, 2001. p. B.7

Wine. by Roger Scruton
New Statesman; 2/7/2005, Vol. 135 Issue 4726, p56-56.
"If I had to recommend a grower, it would be Bruno Clair, who inherited from his father, Bernard, the ability to distil the marly soil of Marsannay into its vinous essence. Bruno's red, white and rosé are all obtainable cheaply from Justerini & Brooks."

You may be interested in "The Institutionalisation of Terroir" by Adam Feil, a "report on the influx of institutional capital into the world’s vineyards." ("While many have sought these sublime terroirs in pursuit of producing the pinnacle of libations, others have begun to position themselves from a capitalistic vantage point, trading the rent rolls of office buildings for the tonnage of Cabernet.")

Global Landscapes: A speculative assessment of emerging organizational structures within the international wine industry", by D.K. Aylward at the University of Wollongong (Australia), is a lengthy academic paper covering this topic (the author also criticizes the dilution of the AOC grade).

And here are some books, some published and some forthcoming. All are about "terroir" in some way, though some are focused on the environmental/geological aspect. Some are not widely held in libraries, so inquire at your local library about interlibrary loan.

Related Question